feliz día de la Hispanidad

I don't work Mondays so all of my weekends are long, but this is the first official long weekend of the school year. Today is the Spanish national holiday, celebrated on the exact date Columbus set foot in the Americas. In addition, today Don Benito celebrates its patroness, la Virgen de las Cruces, in the traditional festival know as la Velá.

10 days ago, they brought the statue of la Virgen down from her grotto about 7 kms out of town. Since then the doors of the church of Santiago have been thrown open every day for various religious observances. Today they walk her back to her mountain grotto and eat, drink and party under her watch.


Last night after my driving class (did I mention I'm getting my license?) we joined the rest of Don Benito in the main plaza. We didn't really know what was going on, but everyone else was clearly waiting for something to happen. We settled at the only empty table to be found and ordered our cañas.
It happened as the church bells struck . The heavy wooden doors of the church creaked open, the crowd hushed, beers were put down and everyone stood. Then out she came, followed by the bishop and surrounded by flowers. There was hooting and applause, which sent all the birds flying from their perches in the plaza trees (there are an exceptional number of birds in this town, did I mention that?).
The bishop said a prayer, the band played, and they set the statue on a stand at the back of the stage so she could watch over the folklore dancing. Those of us on the esplanadas sat and returned to our beer and chips.

After a few dances and a costume change, the band started up again and they carried the Virgen back inside. The bars stools temporarily became church pews as we all stood and clapped thunderously until they closed the doors behind her.

Today they take her back to her grotto, and the romaria goes with her. We'll probably follow in the evening to partake in the hoopla -- as visitors in her town it's only right to pay her homage.