mi primer día

I always forget my toothbrush. I did last week when I went to visit my cousin at her uni town, Leiria. I wasn't overly upset about it -- I bought a fabulous pink toothbrush that has been brightening my spirits as well as my teeth ever since. I did, however, make a mental note NOT to leave for Spain without my new toothbrush. Yesterday I caught myself packing both old and new toothbrush. Just in time -- I left one at home as a back-up for the next one I forget. I think I was already on the plane when I realized that I had forgotten the toothpaste.

...

I very nearly ran into three different street-sweepers today, which I think means two things: (1) I am even more disoriented than usual when I haven't had much sleep, and (2) Madrid is clean. I've only seen a corner of this sprawling city, but so far I am suitably impressed. I didn't leave my hostel this afternoon until about 14.30, by which point I was so weak with hunger (and from lugging my stupid suitcase up metro stairs) that it was about all I could do to stumble past BK into 'Istanbul' where an Indian guy served me an 'authentic doner kebab'. It wasn't very good but it made me feel better anyways. My hostel is on calle Arenal for those of you who may know Madrid, right in the middle of town. I wandered towards and then down Gran Vía, oogling books and shoes along the way. Staved off impulses and bought only a Spanish sim card for my mobile. This part of town (Madrid de las Austrias, says my guidebook) is quite grand, in the early 20th century architecture grand old European capital kind of way.

By 5-ish I was starting to crash -- and the 30 degree heat was making me feel miserable that my sandals hadn't made the under-20-kilos-suitcase cut. It was then that I stumbled into Retiro, where I promptly napped under a tree. Woke up an hour later feeling much better and watched ducks and rowboats on the lake. What a beautiful park -- and I only saw one corner of it.

Finally made it back to Plaza Santa Ana for a beer. I have now heard the guy on his accordion play 'Those Were the Days' twice. It's almost 8 pm. The plazas (and that's what this city seems to be, plaza after plaza after plaza) are full of people. Children zooming around on roller blades and chucking balls, lots of beer drinking and tapas eating. There is no indication that anyone is going anywhere...but, hey, I still have toothpaste to buy.

I was so floored by this window display, I had to photograph it. See the pillow with the pig in the back??

The lake in Retiro.

Look at me, I'm voluptuous!

Plaza Mayor in full twilight glory.